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Marquette, MI 49855 (906) 226-0900 1-877-467-4374 |
 
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The Mining Journal
Marquette, MI 49855
12/14/2004 00:00:00
By A.M. KELLEY
Journal Staff Writer
MARQUETTE — Jean-Pierre Van Wijnendaele has a sweet job.
The Belgian flew in from Europe a few days ago to bake elegant gourmet Christmas treats for his friends Jackie and Patrick Gonda, the owners of Gophers restaurant in Marquette.
Gonda said Van Wijnendaele’s pastry list is endless and the delicacies that come from his ovens are in a league of their own.
“They’re European desserts — not the same as everyone else’s,” Gonda said. “We have no competition.”
Van Wijnendaele’s craft is his inheritance. He learned to cook from family members.
“He has old, old recipes from his great-grandfather,” Gonda said, interpreting for the Dutch-speaking Van Wijnendaele.
Now retired, Van Wijnendaele used to teach and operate three bakeries in Brussels with a staff of 50 bakers. The Gondas met Van Wijnendaele in 1998 as they set out to open a Belgian waffle shop in Marquette.
Van Wijnendaele came to Marquette and helped them get the business off the ground. Then in 2001 the Gondas relocated and moved farther north on Third Street. They expanded their menu beyond sweets and began offering lunches and light dinners.
Last Christmas Eve the Gondas phoned Van Wijnendaele in Belgium to tell him that business was booming.
“Next year I’m coming to help,” he said.
The easy part is the trip from Belgium to Marquette. The hard part is finding the right ingredients for his recipes.
“It’s 100 percent different here,” Van Wijnendaele said.
First thing Monday morning he began searching local markets for butter to bake Christmas cakes, yule logs, cookies, and tortes flavored with mocha, butter creme, chocolate, Grand Marnier and rum.
Butter is his No. 1 problem. American butter is too oily.
“You have to have very good butter,” he said.
The Gondas have always had to import sugar from Belgium — large “pearl” sugar — for the waffles, but have never been able to find a supplier for creme fraise, a type of whipping cream.
American pastries are much sweeter and heavier. European pastries are light and flavorful.
“This is sweet,” Patrick Gonda said, pointing to a mocha torte Van Wijnendaele had just finished preparing. “But you don’t get that sugar rush.”
Gophers is open Monday through Friday 8 a.m. to 7 p.m., and Saturday 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. The Gondas take orders — large and small — for holiday pastries and can be reached at 226-0900.
Van Wijnendaele will be in Marquette until New Year’s Eve and he said there’s no where else he’d rather be.
“If you do something, do it well,” Van Wijnendaele said. “Then when you see the people smile it makes you happy. Why do something else?”
"THE MINING JOURNAL, DECEMBER 14 2004"